Samsung PN50C7000 50-Inch 1080p 3D Plasma HDTV

  • Clear Image Panel
  • Elegant Style with Slim Design
  • 3D Experience
  • 4 HDMI (v1.4)

Product Description
Get a true cinematic experience without going to the cinema with a Samsung plasma HDTV. This Samsung PN50C7000, with Mega Dynamic Contrast Ratio makes sure every frame is saturated with dense, rich color. Samsung is also ENERGY STAR compliant so you are assured that your 50 -inch plasma HDTV is helping the environment by using less enery while saving you money…. More >>

Samsung PN50C7000 50-Inch 1080p 3D Plasma HDTV

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5 Responses to “Samsung PN50C7000 50-Inch 1080p 3D Plasma HDTV”

  1. E. Boci says:

    I purchased this TV as a replacement for an older JVC DLP 1080i set. The colors and details are amazing! Playing PS3 games and blu ray movies on a plasma are everything I’ve read about. There has been absolutely no blurring during action movies like some LCD’s can have. I don’t know how it compares to some of the “industry’s finest” plasmas, like a Kuro, but from what I’ve seen, the black levels have been superb.

    I describe myself as a pretty technical person, so I really appreciate all of the adjustments available on the 7000 series. I would liked to have purchased the PN50C8000, with pro calibration controls, but it wasn’t available to me at the time I purchased this model.

    Adding to the geek appeal is the internet functionality. I am able to connect it directly to a LAN cable, so all internet widgets and video streaming are quick and don’t lag. Possibly one of the greatest connection feature has to be the USB connection. I have a 1 TB external hdd filled with movies and video. I have only encountered one obscure file format that the TV hasn’t been able to play. It will even play .mkv files!

    There have only been a few downfalls to this TV. From the time I turned it on for the first time, there has been a buzzing noise emitting from the screen. I can’t pinpoint the exact location, but you can hear it when you would like to have the volume lower (like when our baby is taking a nap). Apparently this has been an ongoing issue with Samsung TV’s, and it seems that I have been one of the latest victims. I am still unsure how I am going to handle this buzz (take it back to Best Buy or call Samsung).

    This is probably expected with how thin these displays are, but the sound is pretty tinney and doesn’t have a lot of quality. Most people will probably want to purchase a sound bar or have a home theater set up, like I do, so it really isn’t that big of a deal.

    The only other thing, which is inherent in plasma screens (no matter what the companies tell you), is burning images. I’ve read all over the internet that modern plasma displays are not supposed to be susceptible to this problem, but let me tell you, if you leave your DVR paused for more than a few minutes on a bright screen or an image with a prominent network icon (Discovery Channel HD), you will definitely see an image for a little while. The TV has features to minimize or allow the pixels to “unburn” itself, but you need to be careful anyways.

    So far I have really enjoyed the PN50C7000, I would definitely recommend it, but will always caution the buzzing.
    Rating: 4 / 5

  2. elixxxer says:

    I have been researching plasma televisions for the last few months in preparation for my first large TV purchase. It was a painstaking process that eventually lead me to purchase the Panasonic G25. Because I lived with that TV for about three weeks and have enjoyed the C7000 for the same amount of time, I am poised to compare the two.

    What first must be addressed is why I chose to return the G25. Two words: floating blacks. This is not to be confused with the phenomenon of rising blacks, where over time the ability of the panel to produce deep, dark blacks is diminished (although this afflicts 2010 models, it occurs at a more gradual rate). “Floating blacks” occurs when images on screen change in brightness and the blacks rise and fall as a result. This represents a significant problem because it is reactionary: when a bright image appears, the blacks do not rise immediately so the effect becomes very obvious and irritating. Floating blacks have been reported by many, while others swear they either do not exist or are indiscernible. I found the behavior to be pervasive for all material and absolutely unbearable. This is unfortunate, because the G25 was fantastic in every other regard: nearly perfect colors out of the box in THX mode, rich blacks with great shadow detail and not a hint of image retention or burn in. In all of the aforementioned categories, the G25 outperformed the C7000 and makes me wish Panasonic would have their niggles sorted.

    Onward to the C7000.

    Overall, I am very pleased with the television. Aesthetically, it is an extremely striking piece of kit. The base is a beautiful piece of brushed aluminum (well, it’s probably steel, but the finish is brushed), the bezel also sports a brushed finish, which in my opinion is far superior to the glossy bezel of most sets, and the glass-like base support and surround add the finishing touch to a special looking television.

    The picture quality of this television is great, to be sure. I find the out-of-the-box colors to be fairly inaccurate and they will be further from true without a professional calibration than the Panasonic. Black levels are good, although not as a rich as the G25 (pre-rise anyway, that could change after a year or two). The screen is a bit brighter than the G25 with more color pop and I have had no issues with motion. The G25 was noticeably grainier, a possible issue if one’s normal viewing distance is closer than average (say, closer than 8 feet). The standard menu allows for far more customization than the Panasonic and there is no need for a non-professional to ever enter the service menu. The internet widgets are exponentially superior to those offered by Panasonic, but I have so many streamers, media devices etc. that the included Samsung apps are rarely used.

    There are a couple of things that irk me with the Samsung, none necessarily significant. Image retention is far more prominent on this set than the Panasonic or my parents’ five-year-old Phillips. A static image left on screen for just a few minutes will result in image retention (and I do have the pixel orbiter set to engage after just one minute). Luckily, it will disappear within minutes after switching to any content that will get those pixels moving and none of the retention has resulted in burn-in. I do play games and still detect no burn-in whatsoever. Also, I did notice a bit of line bleed that I never experienced with the G25, but that seemed to be an isolated incident as I have not observed it again.

    That segues nicely to my next point of complaint: game mode. The input lag on this set makes games unplayable in any mode BUT game mode. This in itself is not an issue, because with game mode engaged, any remaining lag is imperceptible. The problem stems from a poorly designed menu. To activate game mode, you must enter the menu, scroll down to services, then click the general setting menu, and then choose on or off. If input lag is going to suck so much in all other modes, this needs to be a single button-click on the remote. Moreover, you can’t disengage game mode by simply switching picture modes. Instead, you must again navigate the same asinine menu tree. Irritating and unnecessary, but at least input lag is perfectly acceptable once in game mode.

    What many buyers considering this set are probably concerned with is 3D capability. It is by far the least expensive 3D television currently available and (especially with the present inclusion of a BR player/starter kit combo) is an unbeatable value. 3D on this set is nearly as good as the big boys (read: VT25) with little crosstalk or ghosting. 3D content is sparse at the moment and will continue to be for the foreseeable future (partly because of the exclusive packaging bull malarkey perpetuated by Samsung and the studios themselves; talk about shooting yourself in the foot). As such, the 2D-3D conversion algorithm is a nice addition and can deliver surprisingly impressive results. It works well for some content and is insufferable with others, so you will have to experiment and see what works for you. Some games and animated content seem to respond particularly well. I recently experimented with native 3D content via the PS3 and was surprised with the results. Stardust HD and Motorstorm both exceeded my expectations, especially considering they were not initially created with 3D as an objective. WipeOut, while not nearly as striking (and a medicore game at best), still enjoyed the added benefit of depth afforded by 3D and still yields an appreciable effect. I should also add that I have experienced no issues whatsoever concerning communication or syncing between the glasses and the television. Additionally, the glasses are fairly comfortable and having to change a battery every 50 hours is actually preferable in the long run, as opposed to losing the charge with internal units, necessitating a trip to the factory (or refuse bin).

    A tangential but important note: when the 7000 line of Samsung plasmas was first released, a picture-processing mode called Motion Judder Canceller was engaged and undefeatable. What this processing actually does is irrelevant: it should be avoided like the plague. If you choose this set, make sure it has firmware 1026 or later installed or download it immediately if not. For giggles, I converted my C7000 into a C8000 in the service menu, which activates the option to enable or disable MJC (I do not recommend this as there is no need). I enabled it and within seconds wanted to gouge my eyes out, it really is that bad. Make sure MJC is off, forever. And ever.

    I suppose this review might come across as somewhat negative. I have decided to keep the Samsung and am happy to have returned the Panasonic, if that is any indication. I give a slight edge to the G25 in overall picture quality, so if you do not need/want 3D and do not observe floating blacks – or don’t know what the heck I’m talking about (and believe me, ignorance is most definitely bliss here) – I would go for the Panasonic, primarily because it is surprisingly inexpensive for the picture it offers. Otherwise, the Samsung is a great set and impeccable value considering its feature set and stunning design. All of the 2010 plasma models have their foibles, it just so happens the C7000 offered the least of them in areas concerning me for the right price.
    Rating: 4 / 5

  3. Attan says:

    Wow! I love my new TV. I got this tv 6 days ago. I can’t believe how many people asked if I had to always watch in 3D with the glasses on, NO. I have a hard time reading these bad reviews. This plasma has a beautiful display. If you don’t like the display of so called soap opera effect why not tune the settings to your liking? Star Trek in HD looks crystal clear, is that what you people mean by soap opera effect? lol. And everyone I’ve asked has never heard about plasma tv’s buzzing? Weird. It took me one night to get used to the 3D glasses. Your eyes and brain have to do a bit more to take in what you are viewing. The focal point always stays clear. Other pics in the foreground and background might be blurry because of this. What I’m saying is if a car speeds past the foreground you’re supposed to see a blurred image. When a car speeds past you in real life and your view is fixed you don’t see a crystal image, there is a natural blur effect. Just don’t think the display is bad because something that was not the focal point was blurred a bit. I have to point that out because some people are complaining, but they just don’t get it. Also, definetly use your plasma for a few days for it to settle in because I noticed more artifacts the first day than a few days later.

    Anyways, 3D! The best effects of 3D I have seen so far is def the 3d-bluray, monsters vs aliens. I actually gave a lil flinch at the begining of the movie when the guy is playing with a paddle ball, nice! Haven’t popped in Cloudy with a Chance yet. The best PS3 3D download of the 4, IMO is Motorstorm. There are smoke particle effects that are really good and that shows the brilliance of the display itself. But 3D really adds nuances that multiply the immersive effects throughout the entire game. Your car and the other AI cars kicking out mud towards the screen as you mash the gas pedal, hitting a ramp and flying toward the transition on the other side of a mountain, and driving through the over-grown brush that happens to be on the dirt path, etc. I can’t wait for some full 3D games to come out because these demos must’ve been made with minimum detail. MLB The Show is just a great game, but I know it could have been a hell of a lot better with max 3D tuning. 3D is most prominent during the pitching/batting sequence. The batter in the box pops, and def the HUD. Stardust HD had very little 3D effect I felt. WipEout HD is a full3D game but I never liked WipEout. But from the demo of it I downloaded, it seems the craft pops from the picture the most. Haven’t seen any burn in (Image Retention), after playing.

    2D to 3D upconversion added a little depth to the view. I had a good time playing Skate3 on it. But let me say I haven’t updated my firmware yet. I actually thought 2D to 3D upconvert worked better with standard channels versus HD channels. And I think Sony did a better job with 2d upconvert to 3D because I demoed a Bravia in a Sony Style store. You can’t expect too much from this feature with either brand anyway. It adds some depth from the foreground to the background, like the people on the far side of the pitch (field) at the World Cup seemed more distant than in non 3D. The glasses are comfy it really just adds a tint when they are activated. I think 3D shades would be more appropriate.

    Rating: 5 / 5

  4. First, I’ll say I’m very satisfied with the TV. Crystal clear HD and very good processing of non-HD signals. If I had it to do over again, I would purchase the same c7000 model instead of the c8000.

    However, there are noteworthy items for those shopping:

    Wireless Internet -

    For easy-setup wireless Internet use, it requires a separately purchased USB adapter device with the correct plug type. Conveniently, Samsung makes one that you can buy for $50 – $70. In my opinion, Samsung should have put in an internal wireless adapter. What a shame. Would have only cost about 75 cents.

    To connect my TV to the wireless router, instead of a USB dongle, I used a TrendNet TEW-430APB configured as an Access Point Client which is plugged into the Samsung’s Ethernet jack. The TrendNet unit is about $40 and requires a little bit of networking knowledge to configure. This solution might be preferable if you think you will need additional Ethernet connections in the same area as the TV. Additional connections can be made available with the purchase of an Ethernet hub or switch (preferable).

    Image Retention -

    I expected a little of this. If you pause an image and leave it for a while, it WILL burn in but only temporarily. There is a scrolling-bar feature that exercises the pixels and removes the image. It will also go away on its own. Supposedly severe image retention stops happening as the display panel “cures”.

    Blurring around the edges -

    This was a big disappointment for me initially but it has been fixed with sets that have firmware version 1026 and later. Older sets can be updated by doing a firmware update that is described in the downloads/support section of the c7000 page at Samsung’s website.

    This effect is called Motion Judder Cancellation (MJC) and it was very noticeable on images being panned in front of a moving background. If you have the effect (it looks like a watery halo around an object’s edge) on your TV, it can be fixed by doing the simple firmware update. You will need a computer with Internet access and a USB thumb drive. In lieu of the firmware update, it can be turned off by turning ON Game Mode and then turning Game Mode OFF while using the particular affected input.

    I did not buy this set for its 3D capabilities so I cannot comment on that. I wore glasses for the first 35 years of my life – post-LASIK, I’m not going to wear them to watch TV. :)

    Rating: 4 / 5

  5. I was looking at an LCD 3D TV but didn’t like the price compared to a closely sized Plasma version. After researching the picture quality between LCD and plasma formats, I am convinced that the plasma is by far a better picture. There is far less pixelization with the plasma and the picture is smoother and more lucid. The contrast ratio is 5,000,000:1. I don’t think that is attainable with an LCD. In general, this is a GREAT TV. The Amazon price is a steal compared to buying it at Bestbuy. Not having to fork out $90 in Maryland sales tax to our thief Governor gave me even greater satisfaction.

    In regards to this buzzing sound, either I’m deaf (I lost my hearing the day I got married) or there is no buzzing sound. I’m using the TV speakers and maybe this buzzing sound stems from those people who are amplifying their audio through external speakers. Could be feedback or just bad cables/ connections. The only drawback I have about this TV is all the connections are on the far left edge of the TV panel, not the rear. Since all my peripherals are to the right of the TV I had to purchase longer cables.Not a big deal though I’ve seen people give bad ratings for reasons like this. Just because they’re technically-challenged is no reason to give a TV a bad review.

    A few other things…

    For the wireless USB adapter you do not need to use a Samsung brand network adapter. My Linksys wireless-N (WUSB600N model) works with this TV. Be careful in setting up your wireless network adapter. If you use a NON Samsung adapter DO NOT enable the ‘Samsung Wireless Link” in the network settings menu. I accidentally enabled this setting and, for some reason, could not disable it after it recognized the Linksys Adapter. Apparently, this is a software glitch that may be corrected in a future firmware upgrade. I had a “painless” chat session with a samsung representative and the only way to correct the problem is to re-set the TV back to it’s original manufacturer settings. You won’t find these instructions in the Owners Manual. If you ever need to do this, hold down the “Exit” button for 20 seconds while pointing it at the TV.

    Finally…..the 3D. This TV upconverts any 2D broadcast into 3D simply by pressing the “3D” button. This is simulated 3D, not true 3D, but there is a noticeable dimensional effect. It’s nice but it’s more of a novelty and I find that I’m not reaching for those 3D glasses as often as I used to.
    Rating: 5 / 5